The 19 members who joined the walk were pleased that the early rain eased just as they set out to enjoy a day of fine walking weather. The ground was wet and muddy in places with surface water on some moorland tracks. The 6.5-mile route was on typically Dartmoor terrain: a mix of open moorland tracks, woodland, riverside paths, and a little lane walking. Some members cut the route by a mile to avoid a very tricky descent through ancient woodland and a steep climb up Ramsley Hill.
The group set out from Belstone car park making their way up to the village crossing down the Common to the footbridge over the river Taw. The Domesday Book records the village as Bellestan or Bellestam, from belle bell and stan stone, possibly from the logan stone identified by Rev Baring-Gould. There were other spellings after Domesday but by the 19th century it was known as Belston. (The Book of Belstone’ by Chris and Marion Walpole).
From the footbridge there followed a steady climb up along the side of Cosdon Hill which was once thought to be the highest point on the moor, though this accolade goes to High Willhays which is a few metres higher. The first written record of the hill is of the Hoga de Cossdonne in 1240. The name Cossdonne seems to mean “Cost(a)’s hill”, where “Cost” or “Costa” is the name of a person. The path was particularly wet on the ascent with numerous rivulets and deep puddles crossing the track, but the group were well-rewarded for this rather soggy climb by the panoramic views they enjoyed over the surrounding countryside.
The pillow mounds on Cosdon’s north western slope are evidence of a rabbit warren. The land upon which the warren was first established was leased from the Duchy of Cornwall sometime in the 1800s. In 1875 a case was brought to the magistrates against Fewings who leased what was described as a warren to which the locals took exception. In their eyes this was common land and should not have been exclusively given over to a warren. Accordingly, some of the villagers went into the warren and shot many of the rabbits which at the time was said by Fewings to number in the thousands. In 1876 the Duchy rescinded the licence for ‘Belstone Rabbit Warren’. (www.legendarydartmoor.com)
After making their way off Cosdon Hill a small group split off to continue on a slightly shorter route while the remainder of the group soon found themselves scrambling down a particularly steep, wet woodland track which was quite challenging in places. Nearing the bottom of the track they encountered a beautiful glossy golden-grey slow-worm. This harmless small ‘snake’ is neither snake nor worm but a legless lizard. They are thought to be the longest-lived of all lizards with one reliably recorded at 54 years of age.
After safely negotiating the steep, narrow descent off the hill they were almost immediately faced with a short steep ascent up to Ramsley Hill. The group had planned to take lunch at the top of the hill but the keen wind from the tail end of Hurricane Nigel led them to seek a more sheltered spot at the viewpoint for their break. The return to Belstone was via the village of South Zeal where they joined a stretch of the Dartmoor Way, a 108-mile walking route (also The Tarka Trail) beside the River Taw through Belstone Cleave.
A famous son of South Zeal was Captain John Oxenham of The Oxenham Arms 1819-1875. His claim to fame comes from Charles Kingsley’s 1855 novel ‘Westward Ho’ The front cover illustration and entire first chapter were dedicated to the daring life and exploits of the privateer and sea dog Captain John Oxenham of South Zeal, recalling his brave exploits and raids on the Spanish fleets in South America. The resort in North Devon owes its existence to Kingsley’s book. https://www.theoxenhamarms.com/devonfamouspeople
Post-walk refreshments were enjoyed at the Old School Tearooms in Belstone.
As ever, new walkers are always welcome. Meet at the post office in George Street, Okehampton ready to leave at 9.30am.
Please be there in plenty of time so that the group can leave promptly.
Next week’s walk will begin at Northam in North Devon. Where possible, we try to share cars though this cannot be guaranteed. You should be suitably attired for all weather conditions, including sturdy footwear and bring a packed lunch.